Does Red Light Therapy Really Work?

We’re doing a deep dive on the viral wand—including whether it’s worth the spend or effort—but first let’s cover some red light therapy basics.

What is red light therapy? 

Red light therapy is a form of “photobiomodulation,” which is a fancy way of saying low-level light therapy to address a range of concerns. This non-invasive treatment works by penetrating into the dermis to directly trigger your body’s “energy factories” to make more energy, explains Ava Shamban, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills, California.

“It has been shown to promote wound healing, tissue repair, and regeneration—all without the tissue injury and controlled wounding by lasers or radio frequency microneedling,” Dr. Shamban explains. “It also stimulates circulation and oxygenation, which translates to more radiant skin.”

You’ll find red light therapy in clinical settings, usually as a supplemental add on to standard facials or in combination with other modalities, like microneedling or chemical peels. Red light therapy devices, including wands and masks, are also available for at-home use. While the treatments are similar, there’s a noted difference in LED array, energy intensity and wavelength, which can impact overall efficacy.

Benefits of red light therapy

For being non-invasive and completely painless, red light therapy has quite the list of benefits. Here are some of the most notable, according to Dr. Shamban.

• Addresses signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and laxity
• Stimulates blood and oxygen circulation for radiant-looking skin
• Triggers collagen production
• Supports wound healing (including acne and scars)
• Soothes inflammation
• Helps manage skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and rosacea

At-home vs. in-office red light treatments 

As is the case any time you’ve got an at-home versus in-office treatment, red light therapy varies greatly from one device to the other.

“An in-office device is likely FDA approved and has been evaluated for its effectiveness and safety whereas at-home devices are widely unregulated,” explains Anna Chacon, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami, Florida. “An in-office device will also have increased strength with a higher concentration of wattage per square centimeter and varying degrees of wavelength size.”

While at-home red light therapy devices are neither as strong nor as intense as office treatments, Dr. Shamban does say they still have tremendous value since you can use them every day. In that sense, they’re a low-cost, easy supplement to your skincare routine, but don’t expect wild, transformative results.

Red light therapy wavelengths

The general wavelength range of red light therapy is 630 nanometers to about 950 nanometers, with longer lengths penetrating more deeply compared to lower wavelengths. Lower wavelengths—like those in the 630 to 660 nanometer range you’re apt to find in at-home devices—primarily target the outer layers of skin and are effective for surface-level treatments like addressing fine lines, improving skin texture, and promoting collagen production, Dr. Shamban explains.

Higher wavelengths, such as those in the 800 to 850 nanometer range (considered infrared) penetrate deeper into the skin and tissues, making them more effective for healing, rejuvenating, and overall skin radiance. Near-infrared (up to 950) are believed to reach deeper layers of the skin and underlying structures to boost cellular repair and regeneration.

Review of the Solawave 4-in-1 Skincare Wand

Forever intrigued by the latest and greatest beauty tech, I was eager to get my hands on the covetable Solawave wand that’s been all over social media feeds since its launch. Here are my honest thoughts and experiences with the device:

Is the Solawave wand worth It?

I think the Solawave wand is worth it, especially for the moderately low cost ($169) and the fact that you have access to it every day. Because let’s be real: it’s hard enough to get that monthly facial in, whereas a daily-use item affords consistency. However, your mileage may vary and I personally consider it supplementary to my skincare routine versus a complete replacement for in-office red light therapy—or other in-office treatments, for that matter. I’m also realistic about just how much it’s doing for my skin and don’t expect a huge transformation (you’ve got to budget your expectations realistically when it comes to skincare devices, people).

I like that the Solawave wand uses a 630 nanometer wavelength red light therapy, which is effective in addressing surface-level issues like fine lines and wrinkles, puffiness, and overall radiance. My skincare concerns include all the above, so that’s a plus for me. It also features “therapeutic warmth” and “vibrating massage”—which create a more soothing experience—and galvanic current, which Dr. Shamban says is a nice perk that improves serum delivery to the skin.

A major consideration, though, is that the device is quite tiny. While this makes it handy for travel and at-home usage, the minimal number of bulbs (there are seven) means it’s only treating a small surface area. Dr. Shamban says this could impact whether the device is able to deliver super effective results, though Dr. Chacon notes that the device has “a good amount of milliwatts per square centimeter” which makes it an easy, entry-level option into the benefits of LED therapy.

Anecdotally, after 30 days of use 90 percent of people say their skin feels rejuvenated, 94 percent say skin looks improved, and 93 percent say it addressed puffiness according to a 60-person independent claims validation study conducted by the brand. I personally enjoy the warmth and vibration, and do feel like there’s a glowy after-effect that occurs immediately after use. I’ve also noticed that the occasional pimple I get seems to go away faster when using the device consistently.

There is a 60-day guarantee which provides some peace of mind if you try it and decide it’s not for you.

Which is better: NuFace or Solawave?

I’ve used both of these devices and I don’t really think it’s a matter of which one is better, but rather what your skincare goals are. NuFace leverages microcurrents to help with toning, sculpting, and lifting. The results are minimal, but I personally do feel like there’s a difference in skin laxity/firmness when I use it consistently, and it also creates a bit of a glow immediately after usage. It’s honestly perfect to use before a special event.

While non-invasive, NuFace does have a sort of zappy feeling that some might find uncomfortable. Solawave focuses on de-puffing, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, and helping skin look radiant.

Who should not use Solawave?

Solawave is non-invasive and pain-free, but there are some contraindications. According to the device manual, you shouldn’t use Solawave if you have any photosensitivity issues, a history of seizures or epilepsy, cancer, or if you’re pregnant, planning to become pregnant, or breastfeeding. People with electronic implanted devices (like pacemakers or ECG monitors) should avoid use, as well, and it’s not recommended for those with serious skin conditions including severe acne.

Can you use the Solawave wand every day?

Yes, you can use the Solawave wand every day. The brand recommends starting out with a 12-minute treatment daily for the first few days, working up to 30 minutes per day as your skin gets acclimated. It’s recommended to use it no less than three times per week, unless you experience any side effects like irritation, sensitivity, or headaches.

How to use the Solawave wand

A perk of the Solawave wand is that it’s super easy to use. Make sure it’s fully charged and that you have clean skin with a thin layer of the Solwave Activating Serum. Press the button on the wand for two seconds and it’ll turn on, then press the wand to your skin starting on the low cheek and moving up and outward. Repeat on the rest of your cheek, followed by your other cheek, and then the forehead and neck (avoiding your thyroid gland). The device head swivels 180-degrees so you use it more efficiently around your mouth and eyes.

The vibration pauses every three minutes, which is your signal to move onto another part of the face (or end the treatment depending on how long you use it). It’ll automatically turn off after 12 minutes.

Is Solawave FDA approved?

At-home devices don’t need to be “FDA approved” like professional, in-office treatments. Instead, they are given FDA-clearance, which involves a lower level of scrutiny. According to the brand, the Solawave Radiant Renewal 4-in-1 Skincare Wand is FDA cleared for light therapy.

The bottom line

The bottom line is that a treatment using a high quality, regulated device—and wielded by a licensed, board-certified dermatologist who does this thing for a living—will provide more noticeable and better results compared to a light-touch, at-home device. That said—don’t write off the value of the affordability and accessibility of at-home red light therapy devices. Your mileage may vary, but if you find that it’s not working for you then the brand allows you to return the product within 60 days for a full refund.